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      IPE 405: The Idea of Wine with Professor Michael Veseth

Detailed Class Assignments

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Topics, Readings and Web Links

Assignments & Notes

1A

Terroir and the Idea of Wine

 

There is a lot to know about wine -- lots of facts to learn and vocabulary to master -- and the initial reading is all about starting to build a foundation. Focus on the parts of the reading that give you a sense of wine a nature -- the map of where wine is produced, the "wine landscape" idea and most particularly the concept of terroir.  Ask yourself, is the idea of terroir just about wine, or does it have broader social significance?

 

Oxford Companion: wine, world production, terroir

The Sense of Wine

 

In class: Jancis Robinson video, Aperitif

 

1B

The Geography and Geology of Wine - focus on Riesling

 

Many of the products we consume are terroir-free.  They are manufactured and could come from anywhere.  Wine, or at least some wine, is different.  It is an agricultural product, so particular conditions are needed for wine grapes to ripen correctly. 

 

Read about the origins of viticulture and the world distribution of vineyards for background, then focus in on Riesling and Germany, which is discussed both in the Oxford Companion and the Geography of Wine reading. Take a look at the map of German vineyards on page 310 of the Companion. Why are the best vineyards in particular places in Germany?  Think about how this is related to the concept of terroir. Also think about the problems of wine in Germany and how lax regulations pushed it into steep decline.

 

As you watch the Jancis Robinson video think about two kinds of terroir: the physical terroir of the vineyard that winemakers try to exploit and the market terroir that winemakers face when it comes time to sell their wines. Success in wine requires a deft hand navigating both concepts of terroir.

 

Jancis Robinson is one of the most influential persons in the world of wine. You can read about her here.

 

Reading:

 

Oxford Companion: origins of viticulture, world distribution of vineyards, Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruher

Sommers, The Geography of Wine, Chapter 4.

In class: excerpt from Jancis Robinson video, Riesling

 

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2A

No Class due to Labor Day Holiday

 

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2B

The Natural Idea of Wine: Wine in the Vineyard

 

Wine is many things, of course, but it begins as an agricultural product, the product of grapes and vineyards and the natural cycle of the seasons. For class today I want to have  you get a sense of this natural idea of wine in several ways. First, read the Oxford Companion articles to get a basic idea of viticulture and winemaking. Then real Colman's chapter, where he talks about Green influences on winemaking in California and France. We'll discuss these readings in class and watch a short video that will help tie some of the pieces together.

 

Reading:

 

Oxford Companion: wine making, viticulture, organic viticulture, biodynamic viticulture

Colman 6

 

In Class: video of  a year in the vineyard

 

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Please submit a one-paragraph "elevator speech" about your wine identity by 4pm on Friday, September 11.

 

Explain what region you have chosen, why the region is interesting and why it is interesting to you.

 

Submit hard copy (no electronic or email versions accepted) to the green folder in my mailbox in the IPE office (Mc213M).

3A

The Business Idea of Wine

 

Please bring a wine advertisement to class today.

 

One important tension in the world of wine derives from the fact that wine is simultaneously influenced by natural and by market forces. A lot of what we have read and seen so far focuses on the natural idea of wine, so it is important to grasp the other side of the argument quickly so that we can benefit from the interplay of counter-point.

 

Read Pitte 1 & 2 to start things off. Pitte is harder reading that Colman because he is writing for a different audience (French intellectuals and wine enthusiasts as opposed to American readers). Stick with it, using your Oxford Companion to look up unfamiliar terms and ideas.

 

Pitte 1 is just a short introduction that we will discuss briefly in class. The meat of the reading is in chapter 2, where he argues that market terroir is more important than natural terroir in the development of wine. The argument is a bit hard to follow, however, as he first discusses the history of the two regions, then the key section on the markets that shaped B and B wines. Finally, he discusses the process of wine-making.

 

From this it is a quick step to a discussion of wine brands, using the Oxford Companion and web-link readings below..

 

 

Pitte 1 & 2

Oxford Companion: Brands, Boisset, Constellation Brands, economics of wine

Constellation Brands home page

Boisset home page (Français and English)

Boisset America home page

 

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3B

The Sense of Wine: Sensory Analysis Workshop

 

Today's class will be an interactive workshop in sensory analysis. 

 

Read the Oxford materials and think about how you use language to describe everyday sensory experiences. 

 

The goal of today's session will be to get you started on a lifetime of critically assessing what you are tasting and developing the vocabulary to describe and analyze it.

 

Bring your favorite wine glass to class today! 

 

Oxford Companion: language of wine, tasting terms, tasting notes, taste, aroma, aroma wheel

How to Taste Wine with Steven Spurrier video

Gary Vaynerchuck on How to Taste Wine video

A Different Tasting Wheel

Evaluating Wine Primer

Wine by the Numbers

 

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Terroir Tasting  9/16@ 7pm

 

No guests.

 

You must be 21+ to participate.

 

4A

Competing Ideas of Wine: France and the United States

 

I would appreciate your feedback regarding the Terroir tasting. Perhaps we will have a brief discussion about it at the start of class.

 

We continue to examine the contrast between different ideas of wine. Pitte frames the question of the idea of wine in terms of Burgundy and Bordeaux, which have much different histories and have been subject to much different market forces. This is a very interesting approach, since there is a tendency to think of Old World wine as a monolith -- a single vision, etc.

 

Tyler Colman examines some of the same issues in Chapter 2 "Soil and Society" where he compares and contrasts France and the United States. Key elements of the history to think about: the fact that both countries experienced crises in the 1930s -- but for different reasons. Consider the natural and economic factors that contributed to both crises, the role that social attitudes towards wine played, and the nature of the public/private reaction.

 

Reading: Colman 2.

 

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4B

Competing Ideas of Wine: Brands

 

Brands are very useful in the wine world -- they provide information and help give buyers confidence in making a purchase. But they are very controversial and subject to several different "ideas of wine." Read Colman 3 to leave about appellations -- the Old World idea of brands -- then read from my blog (click on the links below) and in the Oxford Companion to find out about New World brands.

 

Main Reading: Colman 3.

Oxford Companion: Appellations, Brands

Wine Economist on Wine Brands

The Market for Lemons

How Many AVAs are Enough?

AVAs: Good, Bad and Ugly

 

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5A

Wine as a Controlled Substance

 

As we have seen, wine in France is defined by place more than anything else, whereas wine in the United States is defined in several ways, by place, by grape varietal (look at the labels in Colman's book) and especially by company brand.

 

In the US, however, there is another powerful group to be considered, the middlemen that we call "distributors." Read Colman's chapter to understand something about the rise of the American wine industry, starting especially with the founding of the Mondavi Winery in 1966. Look closely for the residual effects of anti-alcohol and prohibition attitudes, how they helped create the three-tier distribution system, and how this affects wine in America.

 

Main Reading: Colman 4

Oxford Companion: Gallo, Mondavi, economics and wine

Wine Distribution Bottleneck

 

 

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5B

Exam #1

See exam study guide on the main page.

 

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6A

Power and Taste: The Battle for the Idea of Wine

 

Read Colman 5 to learn about the power of wine critics. We'll talk about critics and ratings in class as well as prepare for the film that we will watch in the next two class periods.

 

 

Main reading: Colman 5

Oxford Companion: Robert Parker, Wine writers

The New Emperor of Wine

 

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6B

Mondovino I

 

Mondovino is a famous 2005 documentary about the battle for the idea of wine between the Forces of Good (Old World traditions) and the Forces of Evil (New World markets).  Your readings for this class and the next one are intended to give you some background so that you get more from viewing the film.  Parker, Mondavi and Rolland (see below), for example, are real people who feature prominently in the film. 

 

The Languedoc (see below) and Burgundy (see next assignment) are the two French wine regions that are most prominently featured in the film. (Aime Guibert makes wine in the Languedoc, for example, and Hubert De Montille is a winemaker in Burgundy).

 

As you watch the film, please try to keep a list of the main characters and try to identify what "idea of wine" each of them represents.

 

Your mid-term paper is a critical review of this film!

 

Oxford Companion , Mondavi, Michel Rolland, Languedoc

Is All Taste Equally Valid?

 

 

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7A

Mondovino II

 

We will watch the second half of Mondovino and discuss it today.  As you watch the conclusion of the film, I'd encourage you to give special attention to the film's rhetoric -- the way it makes its argument -- both verbal, through the interviews, and visual, through the choices of images associated with each character and idea.

 

 Remember that  your mid-term paper will be a critical review of this film, so be sure to take good notes!  And don't forget the exam on Wednesday!

 

I wonder why dogs feature so prominently in this film?

 

Oxford Antinori, Michael Broadbent, Supertuscan

Terry Theise on Globalization

In class: second half of Mondovino

 

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7B

Mondovino and the Battle for the Idea of Wine

 

A class discussion of Mondovino and a chance to ask questions about the film. Olivier Torrés wrote a book about one of the central cases of the film called The Wine Wars: The Mondaqvi Affair, Globalization and "Terroir." Click on this link to download a pdf of Chapter 8: Cultural Differences at the Heart of the Failure. Read past the first few pages (which comment mainly on previous arguments in the book) to get to the important material about the cultural differences (as opposed to strictly political or economic ones) that Torrés sees as the real reason for the conflict.

 

There will be a brief meeting at the end of class for students going on the Fall Break fieldtrip.

 

 

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8A

No Class -- Mid Term Break

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8B

Two Ideas of Wine

 

Today's class continues our exploration of Jean-Robert Pitte's book on Bordeaux/Burgundy and also help prepare us for tonight's Burgundy and Bordeaux wine tasing.

 

Read Chapters 1 and 3 in Pitte's book. You've already read Chapter 1, so just review it briefly to help you recall how Pitte frames the issues. In Chapter 2 Pitte argued that the differences in these wines (and wine in general) is due as much to market terroir (differences in demand) as to other factors. It is interesting to see, therefore, what he has to say in Chapter 3, "The Physical Environment." Remember as you read this material that Pitte's contrast of Burgundy and Bordeaux is a mirror image of classic New World / Old World debates.

 

We will also watch an interesting video about the effect of terroir on Pinot Noir.

 

Reading: Pitte 1 and 3.

Oxford Companion: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Oregon, New Zealand

 

 

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Bordeaux & Burgundy Tasting 7pm tonight

Mid term papers due on Friday

9A

Two Ideas of Wine Reconsidered

 

We end our discussion of Burgundy (and all that it represents) versus Bordeaux with Pitte's long chapter 4, which examines all the ways that these two regions differ and yet sometimes resemble one another. Draw a line down the center of your notebook and mark one column Burgundy and the other Bordeaux. Keep track of all of Pitte's comparisons and, when the last one is finished, draw a line and write a tasting note -- each region in a nutshell.

 

Now that you have actually tasted Burgundy and Bordeaux wines, do you think the wines reflect their origins, broadly defined?

 

Two short videos will explore the stereotypes one more time and consider the ways that both regions have contributed to the globalization of wine.

 

Reading: Pitte 4

 

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9B

 Flying Winemakers

 

Globalization is process of world wide exchange. It brings together different cultures, practices and ideas of wine. The agents of globalization must walk a delicate line in winemaking as in so many other things.

 

Winemakers in the New World, for example, are relatively free to use all the tools at their command to make the best possible wines.  Old World winemakers, on the other hand, tie their own hands with AOC restrictions.  What are the arguments on each side and is there a happy medium?

 

If there is, then are the so-called Flying Winemakers part of the solution (or part of the problem)?  Flying Winemakers are one element of the international exchange of techniques and ideas that characterizes today's global wine market.

 

Sad note: Didier Dagueneau who is featured in this video died last year in an airplane crash.  Here is his obituary in the New York Times.

 

Reading:

Oxford Companion: Sauvignon Blanc, flying winemakers, Sancerre, New Zealand (Marlborough p 483)

Flying Winemakers and Glocalization

Flying Winemakers and Argentina

Tyler Cowen on Cultural Creative Destruction (a .doc file)

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10A

A Completely Different Idea of Wine: Champagne

Champagne is the most famous wine in the world and arguably the most expensive and profitable. Our video explains how Champagne is made (and even how to open the bottle safely, although there is another way ...) and asks us to think about the global reach of sparkling wines. The Old World - New World theme is here once again, although it's not quite the same as before.

We can use Champagne as an excuse to consider a different idea of wine -- wine as a luxury good rather than as a particular product of soil or technology. Indeed, many of the most powerful wine corporation in the world are rooted in the profit and image of fine Champagne.  Moet Hennesy Louis Vuiton (LVMH for short) is a perfect example. One question you might ask yourself is why Champagne in particular is associated with multinational wine companies?

 

We will sell no wine ...

Major Champagne producers

Moet Hennesy Louis Vuitton

 

Oxford Companion: champagne, sparkling wine, Moet & Chandon, , Roederer, LVMH,

 

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10B

The Red Wine Paradox: Wine & Health

 

Merlot sales boomed worldwide after a report was published (and publicized on 60 Minutes) linking consumption of red wine to heart disease benefits (this is the so-called French Paradox).  Let's use today's video on Merlot as an excuse to drill down a bit into the health costs and benefits of wine consumption.

 

Merlot is not the only red wine that provides health benefits, of course, but it is a grape varietal that is relatively easy to ripen and to grow and therefore is found around the world, both in fine wines and in cheap plonk. Interestingly, Jancis Robinson thinks that some of the best Merlot comes from Washington State.

 

Oxford health, medicine, French paradox, Merlot

 

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11A

Waves of Wine Globalization

 

Wine is a global product, but it didn't get that way over night.  It has taken three waves of globalization to bring wine from places like New Zealand and South Africa to your supermarket shelf. A study of wine from seemingly unlikely places highlights the role of historical forces in the globalization of wine.

 

Oxford Globalization, New Zealand, South Africa

 

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Take home essay due at the start of class on Monday.

11B

Exam #2.

See exam prompt on course main page.

 

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12A

Sideways: Wine in transition

 

A lot of the discussion has been about Old World versus New World, but there is a world of wine that is in transition -- areas that we might call the New New World or, in some cases, the New Old World. 

 

I would classify China, India and Japan, for example, as New New wine regions (even though wine has existed in these regions for centuries) because they are newly emerging into the global wine scene. 

 

I would call Moldova, Georgia and Lebanon and Israel New Old wine regions, because they are not so much entering the global market as re-entering.

 

Let's talk about the particular challenges and opportunities these emerging wine regions face.

 

The Future of Wine

The China Syndrome

Indian Tariffs

 

Oxford: China, India, Japan, Moldova, Georgia, Lebanon, Israel

 

 

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Some links to use in class:

 

Chateau Bolongbao (China)

Chang Yu Wines (China)

Grace Vineyard (China)

Grace Winery (Japan)

Sula Wines (India)

 

 

Chateau Musar (Lebanon)

Chateau Kefraya (Lebanon)

Golan Heights Winery (Israel)

Vinaria Purcari (Moldova)

Georgian Wine & Spirits Company (Georgia)

 

12B

Special Guest: Tom Hedges, Hedges Family Estate

 

Reading:

Hedges Family Estate

Oxford: Washington State, Red Mountain AVA

 

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Globalization tasting 7-9pm

13A

Navigating the Wine Wall

 

It is time to confront the Wine Wall -- my term for the sometimes vast selection of wine that confronts us in today's global wine economy.  So many choices!  What is a consumer to do?  We'll examine this from two perspectives: how we see the Wine Wall and how it sees us.

 

If you have time, try to visit the Metropolitan Market on Proctor Street before class and familiarize yourself with the Wine Wall there. It would be great if you could spend a little time watching the other shoppers, too.

 

What are wine enthusiasts looking for?

Constellation's Project Genome (pdf file)

Sub-Prime Wine Crisis

They Always Buy the Ten Cent Wine

 

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13B

No Class -- Thanksgiving Break

 

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14A

Power and Taste: Wine Critics

 

Because wine can be so complicated many people based their idea of wine (and wine consumption habits) on the advice of wine critics and the advice given by Wine Magazines.

 

Hundreds of wine critics write and talk about wine in dozens of places including newspapers, magazines, books, radio, television and the web.  Your reading will introduce you to some of the personalities and many of the issues. 

 

We will use class time to examine three of the most influential wine publications to see what we can learn about their ideas of wine.  The publications are Wine Spectator, The Wine Advocate and Decanter.

 

Oxford: wine writers, wine writing, scoring, Robert Parker

 

Masters of Wine (and Economics)

Wine by the Numbers

The [New] Emperor of Wine

Taste and Power

Wine Critics and their Discontents

 

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14B

McWine and the Two Buck Chuck Effect

 

In class we will continue to think about the future of wine.  Today's topic is the Two Buck Chuck effect.  This is an examination of the way that wine consumers think about price and quality and the paradox that a very inexpensive wine may be difficult to sell (because of the assumed low quality).  Two Buck Chuck is the exception to this rule.  Why?

 

Oxford: Price, Price Points

 

300 Million Bottles of Two Buck Chuck

The Sub-Prime Wine Crisis

 

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Your one-paragraph "elevator speech" about your final paper topic is due at the start of class today.

15A

A Tale of Three Wine Markets

 

The Old World perspective holds that wines are defined by where they are made -- vins de terroir.  But the New World viewpoint is not so much that they are vins technologique, as you might expect, but that they are vins de marché -- wines defined by the markets in which they are sold.  This means that we need to understand the three markets that define the world of wine today: Britain, Germany and the United States.

 

Oxford: British influence on the wine trade,

 

The Fall and Rise of the British Wine Market

Costco and Global Wine

The World’s Best Wine Magazine?

 

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15B

The Future of Wine

 

What will wine look like in 50 years? Different, that's for sure. But how? We return to the fundamental tensions that drive the battle for the idea of wine.

 

Pitte, Conclusion

 

The Future of Wine

Screwed not Corked

It's in the Bag (in the box)

Blue Wine

Chateau Al Gore

 

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16

Final Paper due by 4pm on Wednesday December 16, 2009.

 

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These materials are intended for the exclusive use of my students at the University of Puget Sound.  No other use is authorized.